It was cool and quiet as we climbed back up the dunes to remount Obama and Bob Marley. They'd spent the night outside the tent camp, each with a front leg hobbled to keep them from wandering away. The trek back to Merzouga was early-morning quiet, cool, and lovely The dunes gave evidence of lots of nocturnal activity -- tracks left by delicate insects, birds, larger animals, a snake or two, and 4-wheel dune buggies! We were back at the hotel by 8:00 for showers, breakfast, and a quick check of email -- some of you have been concerned by our cyber silence -- before meeting Idir for our last day traveling with him.
Before too long, we were stopped by the Royal Gendarmarie at one of their checkpoints. Evidently Idir's "peaceful face" wasn't enough to get us waved through. He had to produce lots of paperwork, in what appeared to be a very friendly and stress-free exchange, and we were not questioned at all.
We were headed to Fez, a full day's car travel from Merzouga, so most of what we saw was from the road. Traveling south to north along the Ziz Valley, we were driving parallel to an oasis that extends over 150 kilometers!
The terrain we passed through today changed dramatically from Arizona-like desert and red rock formations to green farm land, snow-capped peaks, and then into a deep and dense cedar and pine forest. We stopped there to watch the Barbary apes playing with each other, jumping through the trees, and amusing the people who stopped to enjoy their antics.
We were fascinated to see the town of Ifrane, home to the country's largest university and billed as the "Switzerland of Morocco". Spic and span streets, beautifully landscaped chalet-style homes and tree-shaded streets characterize this town, which is a ski resort and getaway spot for the wealthy. It was hard to believe we were still in Morocco.
Idir had called our riad's owner and arranged to meet him at the edge of the Fez Medina, so he could lead us through the maze of the souk's narrow lanes to the riad, our home for two nights. Getting lost is pretty much a given in Fez, so we were grateful for the hand-off. We bid goodbye to Idir, our guide and companion for the last four days and were warmly greeted by Mohamed, who is proving to be a wonderful host, and who quickly helped orient us to Fez.
Dinner on the patio of a nearby restaurant gave us a ring-side seat at the busy nighttime scene in the Fez medina -- more great dinner theater!
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